Ankang

I went with a group of international students who were also studying Chinese at Shaanxi Normal University to the city of Ankang (安康), just a couple of hours south of Xi'an. We were invited by the local Ankang City council to participate in the opening ceremony of their annual celebrations for the Dragon Boat Festival (端午节 Duānwǔjié). Our travel there and back, plus our food, accommodation and sports uniforms were all paid for by the local council.  We even met the mayor of the city and the organisers of the festival. 

We arrived in Ankang in the afternoon on Monday 14 June 2010. We had dinner then went for a walk around the town. 

The next morning, we participated in the street parade as a part of the opening ceremony. Our group carried a flag that read 国际友人, meaning "international friends". The parade ended on the banks of the Han River (汉江) where we listened to some speeches and then posed for photos with the locals.

That afternoon we went for a trip to the nearby Xiangxi Cave, said to be the place where Lü Dongbin (one of the Eight immortals of Taoism) educated himself. This shrine dates back to the Tang Dynasty (618-907 CE). 

We climbed the steep stairs to the temple at the top of the hill where we came across a group of musicians and dancers. 

A painting on one of the walls inside the temple.

Later that afternoon, we returned to Ankang to practise our rowing in the dragon boats. Around half of the international students were from Kazakhstan, so they formed one team all dressed in blue, and the rest of us were dressed in white. 

That evening we went for a walk around the town again, this time along the river bank where the locals were out enjoying the warm summer air and going for a swim in the cool water. 

Before long, we attracted a bit of a crowd. Some just wanted to have a chat and ask us all about what we were doing in China, and others were fascinated by an African-American student's tightly plaited hair and dark skin. When they felt her hair, they didn't think it was real. I was told by this same student that in some places they even want to rub her skin to see if the colour would come off, as they thought it looked like she had covered herself in make-up.

The next morning, we got up early and went back down to the river, this time to participate in the opening ceremony of the Dragon Boat Race. Before we got in the water, we had some hard boiled eggs and traditional dumplings called "zongzi" (粽子) made of sticky rice with pork and nuts all wrapped in a banana leaf and steamed. 

Our dragon boat (the white one).

During the ceremony, we rowed our boat down the river past a large crowd watching from the shore. We had to row to the beat of a drum to keep us in time. Fireworks were going off everywhere, some fireworks were even set-off from the back of our boat. It was so loud and lively, with the smell of gunpowder in the air, the cheers of the spectators and firecrackers along the river banks, and the sound of drums beating and rowers chanting. 

We were towards the front of the procession, so we rowed into shore and sat in the boat to watch the other boats go past. They had singers, dancers and acrobats performing on a large cement area on the river bank. I was interviewed on camera and photographed by a local news crew.

After the performances, the other boats went back out onto the river where they took part in a traditional competition. We were still on the river bank, so we had front row seats. They set ducks and large fish loose into the river and then the teams in each boat had to compete to catch the animals. Each boat had one or two simmers that would jump in the water and grab as many fish or ducks as they could. Whoever had the most won and after the race they cooked up what they had caught. We all went back to the hotel for lunch and then got in the bus to go back to Xi'an. There was an actual Dragon Boat Race on later that afternoon, but unfortunately we weren't able to stay to see it. 

There are many stories behind the traditions of the dragon boat festival which began more than 2,500 years ago. The story that I head was that Qu Yuan, a loyal court official to the king of the state of Chu, committed suicide in protest of the corruption of the era by holding a large rock and jumping into the Miluo river. Legend has it that the locals rushed to save him in their fishing boats, however they were unable to recover his body. Racing out onto the water in boats to catching fish and ducks is supposed to be a reenactment of this. 

Click here to see all my photos from Ankang.

Hancheng

Looking down on the old part of the city from the park on top of the hill.

 Hancheng (韩城), located about three hours north-east of Xi'an, is a Chinese National Historic and Cultural city with its origins stretching as far back as the Jin Dynasty in the late 12th century. 

My three friends and I arrived by bus late in the evening. When we got off the bus, a Chinese woman who got off at the same stop asked us if we needed help. We told her we were going to look for a hotel, and we will be fine, we'll just get a taxi. She became very worried and quietly warned us it wasn't very safe for foreigners to be walking around at night with big bags. 

She ended up hailing two taxis and told both the drivers which hotel to take us to. She jumped in the taxi in front with two of my friends, and I hopped in the taxi behind with my other friend. We pulled up outside the hotel, and just after I paid the driver the fare, the Chinese woman got out and approached our driver to try pay him. It turns out she paid the fare in the other taxi and wanted to pay ours too. She even went inside and helped us book a room, even though we could all speak Chinese. Just before she left us she gave us her number and said we could call her if we need any help, and she even offered to show us around the city. 

An old pavilion in the park overlooking the old city.

The ceiling of the pavilion.

The next day we met up with her and she showed us around some of the sights before having lunch together. She even tried to pay for lunch but we beat her to it. We were very thankful for all of her help, but we insisted we would be fine from then on as she was home for the Qingming Festival (清明节) and she should go spend time with her family. 

We were confused by the fact that this city was supposedly around 800 years old, but all of the buildings were very new and the streets virtually empty of any traffic or pedestrians. We later discovered that this was the new part of the city which was situated on a sort of plateau, and down the side of the hill was the old city. As we walked around the new part of the city, people would stare at us wherever we went. When we tried to cross the street, the passing cars and motorbikes would slow down and even stop in front of us to stare at us, which made it impossible to cross to the other side. 

The pagoda overlooking the old part of the city.

We came across a park with a pagoda in the middle overlooking the old part of the city at the bottom of the hill. In front of the pagoda was an old man practising his calligraphy on the pavement by using a big brush and a bucket of water. He continued to use as many tiles as he needed until his work dried up on the other side, at which point he would go back and start again.

We stopped to watch and admire his artwork. He started to talk to us and eventually talked me into having a go. I went up and wrote my name in Chinese 和积臣 'He Jichen' (although I have since changed my Chinese name to 何杰森 'He Jiesen').

If you're unable to see the above video, click here.

After this we made our way down the slope further into the old part of the city and came across a Qingming Festival celebration. The Qingming Festival is part of the spring festivities, with its traditions dating back more than 2,500 years. In this particular festival the Chinese honour their ancestors by cleaning the graves of deceased relatives and making offerings of incense, food, tea and wine. 

If you're unable to see the above video, click here.

While this festival is a time for solemn commemoration of the dead, it is also a time for celebration, as it is around this time that flowers begin to bloom and leaves begin to grow on the trees, signifying new life.   

If you're unable to see the above video, click here.

You will see in the videos lots of the colour red. This is traditionally considered an auspicious colour as it is believed that devils and evil spirits are afraid of it. The clashing of cymbals and beating of drums is also supposed to scare away evil spirits.

The entrance gate to the Confucius Temple.

We had a look at the Confucius temple (文庙), which was built during the Yuan Dynasty around the 13th or 14th century in honour of Confucius. We had a look at the main courtyard and temple building, but unfortunately we didn't end up seeing the rest of the complex. 

The main courtyard of the Confucius Temple.

A depiction of a dragon on a wall within the Confucius Temple grounds.

In an alleyway beside the temple courtyard, we found a heap of old statues and stone carvings just sitting there in the open, many bearing very interesting motifs.

During our stay in Hancheng, we took a taxi to the Sima Qian temple just ten minutes south of the old city. The temple grounds houses the tomb of Sima Qian (145-90 BCE), a famous Chinese historian and litterateur who originates from the Hancheng area. The temple itself was built in 310 CE during the Western Jin Dynasty. This temple showcases more than 1,700 years of history. 

The Sima Qian Temple.

The path back down the hill, with the enormous freeway bridge in the background towering over the valley below.  

A stone within the grounds of the Sima Qian Temple.
It reads "without soldiers you have no power, but without virtue you cannot prosper".

Click here for my full photo album of Hancheng and the temples.

Dangjiacun

The view of Dangjicun upon entering the village.

Located in Shaanxi province near the banks of the Yellow River, just a few hours north-east of Xi'an and 20 minutes outside Hancheng, lies the ancient village of Dangjiacun (党家村). The name, pronounced 'dung-jya-tsoon', literally means "the Dang family village". Built in 1331 during the Yuan dynasty, this beautiful village is surprisingly visited by a relatively small number of tourists. Most of the people that do come to visit are domestic Chinese tourists.

The view of Dangjicun following the road that leads into the village.

Before you can enter, you need to buy a ticket at the gate blocking the road that leads down the side of the valley into the village. This money goes towards the upkeep of the site, considering it is now half empty as many of the residents have left for the big cities looking for work. 

A monument supposedly erected by an emperor of the Ming dynasty.

Ornamental wooden carvings above the doorway to a house.

I visited this village back in 2010 when I was studying in Xi'an on exchange. 

As my three friends and I entered the village, a number of people approached us and offered accommodation in their homes. Seeing as there are no hostels or hotels within the village, this was our only option. A friendly man with one arm led us to his house and showed us our room which only cost RMB 20 per person per night. It had four single beds and we had a key to lock our belongings up for when we were wandering around outside. 

Our one-armed host sharpening a cleaver before making dinner.
That basin above his head was our bath for three days.

The family we were staying with ran a small restaurant out of their kitchen. The food was very nice and affordable. When we first ordered food, we ordered some dishes and asked for rice for four people, as you do when eating Chinese food. However, the cook informed us that in the regional areas of northern China they generally eat noodles, as the climate is too dry to grow rice. 

A wooden door leading into the central courtyard of one of the houses.

Inside the grounds of a nearby school there is a small tower. My friends and I looked around and set off some firecrackers that we had bought at the front gate.

Some flowers in bloom, signalling the beginning of spring with the tower in the background.

A wooden screen providing privacy from the courtyard outside.

My friends and I wandered around for a couple of hours soaking up the tranquil and calm atmosphere. We explored the cobblestone alleyways and the old houses that had been left open for tourists to come in and see. 

The old home of a wealthy family, now uninhabited.

Eventually, we made our way up the side of the valley for a better view. We found makeshift dwellings that had been carved out of the valley walls. Inside were beds made out of stone and bamboo or straw mats. 

The make-shift homes in the valley walls.

To the north of the village was a beautiful old temple. We decided to walk there along the country road than ran along the wheat fields. Along the way, cars and bikes would occasionally drive past and slow down to have a good look at us foreigners, with a few people calling out "hello!" and having a good laugh. A couple of girls on pushbikes came riding past, and as they drew near I called out in Chinese "is the temple that way?". One of the girls almost fell off her bike in shock, as she obviously didn't expect me to be able to speak Chinese. As she steadied herself with her feet safely on the ground, she had a little laugh and nodded her head. 

We spent the whole afternoon wandering about the temple grounds, soaking up the calm and relaxing atmosphere. 

The next day we walked out of the village and took a taxi to the Dragon Gate Bridge (龙门黄河大桥). This bridge spans the famous Yellow River which marks the border between the provinces of Shaanxi (陕西) and Shanxi (山西).

A Red Star atop the Dragon Gate Bridge

A view of the bridge from the banks of the Yellow River

Me beside the famous Yellow River, known as the "Cradle of Chinese civilisaiton".

Getting There

From Xi'an, get a bus to Hancheng City and then a bus from there to Dangjiacun. 

Click here to see all of my photos of Dangjiacun.

Tips for Surviving in China

Going to China for a holiday, work or study? Unsure of what to expect? Well, read through these helpful tips to ensure you are better prepared. While this post mostly focuses on negative topics, I assure you that despite these issues, travelling to China can be an amazing and rewarding experience.

Taxis

Taxis in China are very cheap and convenient. However, you need to be aware of a few things first before getting in. 

The meter — Make sure the taxi has a meter. if there is none, get out, it's not a genuine taxi. If there is one, make sure the driver starts the meter. If they don't, just say 请打表 (qǐng dǎ biǎo). If they refuse, get out and take another taxi. The reason for this is if they don't hit the meter, it is usually because they are either not a genuine taxi, they are trying to rip you off or there is some other conspiracy going on. 

Negotiating Fares — On longer trips, it can be worth your while to ask the driver to not hit the meter and negotiate a price instead. This could end up saving you money in the end.

Sharing — It is quite normal to share taxis with strangers on longer trips. For example, when I was leaving Xi'an, I went to the bell tower to catch a shuttle bus to the airport. The tickets for the bus were about 35 RMB. As I was going to purchase a ticket, a taxi driver approached me and asked me to take his taxi. Now, a taxi all to yourself would commonly cost 100 RMB if the driver agreed to not hit the meter. However, he was offering a ride for 25 RMB as he had three other passengers who were paying the same amount. 

Know your route — If possible, get an idea of the general route the driver needs to take to reach your destination, as they could go a longer way and charge you more. In some situations, the driver may not even know where your destination is but won't say anything. 

This actually happened to me in Xi'an. We were going to a friends apartment, but the building was quite new, so the driver didn't actually know exactly where the address was. He didn't tell us this and just drove around the suburb. When we asked him if he knew where it was, he said yes and kept driving. Eventually it became obvious we weren't getting there and we asked to pay and get out. With a bit of walking around and asking for directions, we finally got there.

Motorcycle Taxis

Motorcycle taxis are much faster and even cheaper than cars as they can weave in and out of traffic with ease. They don't have meters, as they are usually not an official taxi service, just some people trying to make a living, so you need to negotiate a destination and price before you hop on. A warning though, they are not for the faint hearted—it's quite a thrilling ride at times. 

Rickshaws

Another possible mode of travel is by rickshaw. This is very convenient, and very cheap. Again, you negotiate a price before getting in. Keep in mind, the generally won't take you a great distance, they will usually only go several blocks, so you may need to negotiate the destination as well.

Pick-Pockets

Like many other countries around the world, having your things stolen by a pick-pocket is a very real danger. In China, it happens out in the open in broad daylight, and despite what you may think, witnesses virtually never say or do anything to stop it, and they have very good reason not to. 

If you see someone having items stolen from their bag or pocket, don't say anything. Pick-pockets usually work in groups, with one person doing the dirty work, and sometimes another close by to try and block most people's view of what's happening with more further down the street keeping watch. If you do anything, it can get dangerous and you may very well get hurt. 

Some thieves work alone, and in some parts of China, I've seen children stealing with an adult standing nearby keeping watch. 

They can be very cunning, and you won't even know you've been hit until it's too late. Some thieves even use chopsticks as an aid to lifting items out of pockets or bags.

I know a true story of my American friend in Xi'an who was walking on the street outside the university we were studying at early one morning. He had earphones in his ears as he was listening to music on his iPod. It was cold, so he had both of his hands in the front part of his hooded jumper. His ear became itchy, and just as he lifted his hand up to scratch it, the music stopped. He reached back into his jumper only to find there was no iPod attached to the other end of his earphones. He looked all around him on the ground but it was no where to be seen. He asked people standing around on the street if they'd seen anything, but no one was willing to help. 

My advice is to walk with your bag on your front, or put anything valuable in a pouch strapped to your body. If you choose to simply put things in your front pockets, it would be a good idea to walk around with your hands in your pockets. 

Be constantly aware of your surroundings. Occasionally look to either side of you, or over your shoulder as you walk, even during the day. if you are observant enough, thieves usually stand out and are pretty obvious. If you see someone stealing from someone else, try and remember what they look like so you can recognise the thieves that operate in each area you frequent. 

When I was studying in Xi'an, there was a busy and narrow street that I would take almost every day. I noticed there were about three or four thieves that worked that street. Every time I walked past them, I would subtly acknowledge them by making eye contact and smiling. Eventually, they would smile and give a little nod of their heads whenever I walked past them. In the eight months I spent in Xi'an, I would have seen at least ten or fifteen people having their bags or pockets raided on busy streets in broad daylight, however I never had anything stolen. 

Street Food

Along the busier streets all over China you will find stalls selling food and snacks cooked right there on the street. This food can include meat skewers, squid, mutton and bread, Chinese style pancakes and burgers, and even fried insects.

While this food can be delicious and very convenient, you should be aware of what exactly you are putting into your mouth, and the risks involved.

Some street vendors use 地沟油 (dìgōuyóu) or "gutter oil" in their cooking. This oil is either simply recycled oil used over and over, or it is made by collecting sewerage and boiling it down to extract the oil. Animal fats and recycled cooking oil are also added. This oil can be very dangerous for your health as it contains harmful bacteria and carcinogens.

I must stress that gutter oil is not in use everywhere. It has been estimated that one in ten of all restaurants, eateries and street stalls within China use it, although it is most likely to be used in the cooking of street food, especially for deep-fried foods.

From experience, you can usually tell where gutter oil is being used from a very strong sickening stench. I smelled this stench every time I passed a particular stall in Xi'an that was selling deep fried foods. Although it is possible it may not have been oil made from recycled sewerage, I am certain it was at least made from oil that has been recycled and reused over and over again, which in itself is very unhealthy.

You can see some news stories on this topic by Radio Free Asia and NTDTV.

I want to emphasise that I am not trying to put you off going to China or from trying the delicious street food there. I only included this story as I think it is important to have more knowledge on this issue and to keep it in the back of your mind when trying street food.

Money

The currency of China is known in English as Chinese Yuan (CNY), although in Chinese it is called 人民币 (rénmínbì), meaning "the people's currency", hence the common abbreviation RMB. The symbol for the RMB is expressed as either ¥ or 元.

The division of the currency is basically like dollars, dimes and cents. One 'yuán' (元) is divided into ten 'jiǎo' (角), and one 'jiǎo' is divided into ten 'fēn' (分). It is important to take note that 'yuán' is often referred to as 'kuài' (块) and 'jiǎo' as 'máo' (毛) in spoken Chinese. 

The notes used today come in 100, 50, 20, 10, 5, 2 and 1 yuan, and 5, 2 and 1 jiao. The coins come in 1 yuan, and 5, 2 and 1 jiao. It is still possible to come across 5, 2 and 1 fen notes and coins, although they are very rare as they are no longer being produced.

Fake Money 

Counterfeit money is a common issue throughout China. You will notice some shops and restaurants will either refuse 100 yuan notes, or they will use a sort of UV light to check for security features.

The security features to look for on the 100 yuan note are:

1. A watermark on the left-hand side of the note, which when held to the light shows an image of Mao Zedong
2. An unbroken metallic strip threaded down the width of the note, with a holographic image of '¥100' appearing as the strip is shone in the light
3. The '100' in the bottom left-hand corner will change colour from green to a sort of silvery blue as you change the viewing angle of the note
4. To the right of the colour changing '100' is another '100' that appears when held to the light as the paper is thinner in that area
5. To the right side of the watermark you will see an image of an old Chinese coin with a square hole that will appear when held to the light as each half of the coin on either side of the note merge
6. In the top left-hand corner next to the coat of arms is a '100' filled with a pattern formed by tiny 'RMB100' and '100RMB'
7. There are textured areas on the note that can be felt when you rub your thumb over them, such as over Mao's coat, over the red lines on the right-hand side of Mao, over the braille in the bottom right-hand corner, and over the PRC coat of arms in the top left-hand corner
8. In the top right-hand corner, another '100' should only be visible if you place the note horizontally in front of your eyes

If you are learning Chinese, it is worthwhile noting that the numbers appear differently on bank notes and legal contracts. Traditionally, this was to eliminate the potential for changing the amounts by adding extra strokes. 

The characters 一，二，三，四，无，六，七，八，九 and 十 appear as 壹，貳，叁，肆，伍，陸，柒，捌，玖 and 拾.

The characters 百，千，万 and 亿 appear as 佰，仟，萬 and 億.